I didn’t grow up in a naked household. I’ve never been comfortable showering at a pool’s locker room without a swimsuit on or changing into gym clothes without a privacy curtain. My bits have always been covered and that’s the way I like it.

So, when a friend and I traveled to Marrakesh and discussed getting a hammam at La Mamounia, let’s just say I didn’t exactly jump at the opportunity. I love to immerse myself in the culture of countries I visit, but the naked component of a hammam gave me pause.

A long pause.

But, after a bit of deliberation, we both decided that we should throw caution to the wind and go for it. After all, when in Rome… err, Marrakesh.

The Spa at La Mamounia

First, let me set the scene. We decided to get our hammam in the heart of Marrakesh at La Mamounia. This five-star establishment has long been regarded as one of the most lavish hotels in the world. Since its opening in 1929, it’s been a favorite of the rich and famous like Winston Churchill, Franklin Roosevelt, Charlie Chaplin, Elton John, Nicole Kidman, and Alfred Hitchcock (who used it as the backdrop for his film The Man Who Knew Too Much). The property features multiple picturesque pools, ornate architecture, sprawling gardens, award-winning restaurants, and an elegant casino for its upscale patrons to enjoy.

But, with a price tag of over $500 a night, it can be prohibitively expensive to stay there. So, if you want to experience it for yourself without the hefty cost, check out the La Mamounia spa!

When you purchase a Season Pass you gain access to the spa for a day. This includes all the hotel pools, a decadent buffet lunch on the outdoor terrace, and either a massage or hammam treatment. Basically, all the best the hotel has to offer without the high expense. And, it’s an experience that leaves you feeling pampered like never before.

A Hammam at La Mamounia

So, what is a hammam, you ask? A hammam is a public bathing treatment often associated with the Islamic world. This centuries-old tradition has been an integral part of Middle Eastern and North African cultures since the Roman Empire. Today, many Moroccans still observe the custom and attend hammams weekly to keep their skin clean and nourished.

Unlike traditional Turkish baths, which primarily use thermal waters, a Moroccan hammam uses steam to open pores and relax the mind. Skin is then cleansed with a combination of olive-based soap that’s rich in vitamin E and rhassoul clay which tightens pores and reduces toxins. The health benefits include lowering stress, boosting the immune system, and rejuvenating your body.

Sounds pretty great, right?

Well, let me tell you about the good, the bad, and the uncomfortable. Here’s what it’s really like to get a hammam at La Mamounia.

Step 1 – Baring It All

Walking through an ornately lit entry, my friend and I descended a deep blue staircase to the spa below. After leaving all our clothes in a locker (and I mean all our clothes), we were given thick white robes and told to wait next to a long, reflective pool. The dim lighting did nothing to calm my nerves as time slowly ticked away, inching us closer and closer to our treatments.

Soon, a woman instructed us to follow her down a corridor toward the steam room. Just outside its entrance (in a very visible hallway), we were told to take our robes off before going in.

(Insert long, uncomfortable pause)

We both hesitated for what felt like forever before sheepishly hanging our modesty on the silver hooks. Suddenly, the ceiling was very, very interesting. When we finally did turn toward each other, it was with notably intentional eye contact.

Eyes forward, nothing to see here…

Step 2 – The Hottest Sauna Ever

We were then ushered into a small steam room with water vapor so thick it was impossible to see each other. Ahhhh… privacy! But, our relief was short-lived when we realized the sauna was so hot it was nearly impossible to breathe. The oppressive, heavy steam weighed down on us like a thick blanket and we were instantly drenched in sweat.

The attendant told us she’d be back in 15 minutes and to just relax in the meantime.

15 minutes?! Are you kidding me?! I was sure we’d suffocate long before then and they’d have to scrape our crumpled, naked bodies off the floor. There was no way we were going to survive that long. My temples pounded, my fingers swelled to the size of sausages, and I sweat from places that I didn’t even know had pores.

Step 3 – Getting Clean (aka My Worst Nightmare)

837 minutes later, the sauna door opened and the sweet relief of cool air rushed in. We made it!

As we walked outside we were told in broken English that we were to follow our attendants to the showers. My friend headed off in one direction and I was taken to a showerhead at the end of the hallway. Out in the open. Where anyone walking by could see me.

Awesome.

My attendant, dressed in a swimsuit uniform, told me to stand there as she poured soap in her hand. Then, she proceeded to wash every inch of my body. And when I say every inch, I mean every inch. My feet, my legs, my lady bits, my arms, my face, my hair…

Closing my eyes (because if I couldn’t see her then she couldn’t see me, right?), I began to re-evaluate the life choices that brought me here. I was embarrassed to my very core and something about having another person wash me felt very elitist and wrong.

But, before I could get too far down my trail of thoughts the water turned off and I was being told to walk into an adjoining room.

As I entered, I noticed it was empty except for a large stone slab in the center. She motioned for me to climb onto it (no small feat for my 5’1″ frame) and then the next phase of treatment began.

Step 4 – The Rub Down

Laying on the cold, stone slab I felt a bit like a cadaver. Goosebumps began to appear and I found myself reminiscing about the impossibly hot sauna. The heat somehow didn’t seem so bad now…

Then, suddenly, she grabbed one of my legs with a coarse mitten and began rubbing a grainy paste all over it. Back and forth, back and forth, back and forth. Once she felt she’d sufficiently scrubbed off enough layers of skin, she moved on to the rest of me. With my eyes still closed, I wondered what I’d see when I finally looked down. Would I have any skin left?

Doubtful.

Then, it was back to the (very visible) shower to be rinsed off.

Step 5 – Rinse & Repeat

This process continued with multiple lotions and scrubs. Thoroughly rubbing each into my skin, then thoroughly rinsing it off.

It was about the second round when I had to have a little pep talk with myself. I wasn’t allowing myself to be in the moment because I was too busy in my own head. Feeling embarrassed by my nakedness, wondering about the morals of someone else bathing me, questioning why people would ever do this for fun.

I had to get over myself.

No one else was uncomfortable but me. My attendant had given hammams to people of all shapes and sizes and it didn’t bother her one bit. This was part of the Moroccan culture and I needed to let go so I could actually experience it.

And, once I did, what felt like torture only a minute ago suddenly began to feel… relaxing.

Imagine that.

Step 6 – A Cup of Mint Tea

After my hammam was over, I was escorted to a quiet room near the spa’s reflecting pool. My friend was already there, lying back in her robe with a cup of mint tea. We were left alone to relax and immediately began to compare notes.

What did you think of the treatment? Has your skin ever felt so soft? What was the best and worst part?

Lucky for me, I didn’t get the burn of eucalyptus paste in my toosh like she had (yowza!) And we both agreed that once we gave ourselves over to the experience, it was actually pretty fantastic.

So, would I recommend getting a hammam? 1,000% yes! Especially a hammam at La Mamounia. While it may push you outside your comfort zone, it will leave you feeling incredibly relaxed (and with the softest skin ever!)

Have you had a hammam before? Comment below, I’d love to hear what you thought about it!

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