Lions and zebras and rhinos, oh my!
If you ask anyone to list off a few things on their bucket list, chances are an African safari will be part of the mix. And my bucket list was no different. There’s just something alluring about seeing storybook beasts outside the confines of a zoo.
Lucky for me, a safari at the Gondwana Game Reserve was part of the itinerary for The Blonde Abroad Photography Tour in South Africa. The experience included luxurious accommodations, incredible attention to detail, and a plethora of wildlife.
It was basically everything I ever hoped it would be. And more.
The Gondwana Game Reserve
Mixing rugged beauty and luxurious detail, the Gondwana Game Reserve offers visitors a chance to experience the very best of Africa in divine comfort. The 26,000 acre park enjoys a mild, Malaria-free climate perfect for game viewing year-round. In addition to seeing some of the continent’s most majestic wildlife, Gondwana also has hiking, mountain biking, full-service spa, and a Junior Ranger Program.
But one of the most striking aspects of the park is its extravagant accommodations. Gondwana has individual poolside huts, expansive private villas, and a tented eco camp. Each has its own unique, jaw-dropping character. And each has a focus on comfort unlike anything I’ve ever experienced (right down to their heated beds!)
And the rest of the reserve is equally spectacular.
The dining area and main buildings are stunning and cozy. The serene pool has impressive views of Outeniqua and Langeberg Mountains. And staff members go out of their way to make your stay more enjoyable. From hot cocoa by the fire to warm washcloths when returning from a game drive – their hospitality is second-to-none!
Plus, the Pan African cuisine is enough to make anyone’s mouth water! You can enjoy the delectable dishes in a scenic veranda lunch, romantic picnic, sundown spot, or lodge meal. It makes the already tasty experience even more delicious.
Pool area, which is often visited by the reserve’s elephant herds.
The Kwena Lodge huts offer an intriguing twist on a traditional Khoi-San dwelling.
My bedroom in one of the Fynbos Villas (complete with fireplace and wrap around deck).
The up-scale lounge area near the reception building.
The dining area adjacent to the main building offers delicious African cuisine.
The Game Drives
But the main reason for visiting the Gondwana Game Reserve – the animals.
A safari at the Gondwana Game Reserve gives visitors the chance to see The Big 5 in the Southern Cape’s only free-ranging reserve. In addition to elephant, lion, buffalo, rhino, and leopard, the game reserve has a number of other species as well. These include zebra, hippo, wildebeest, cheetah, ostrich, giraffe, and many more.
Basically, all your African safari dreams come true.
On the game drives, Gondwana’s expert guides take you out in an open Land Rover with spacious interior. The three rows of bench seats comfortably fit 9, and the vehicle is equipped with blankets and ponchos (should you need them).
We were lucky to have Mike as our guide while visiting the park, and he educated us on all things Africa. Pointing out animal behavior, biology, and fauna, he added depth to the wildlife we encountered. We even got a few colorful stories that had us on the edge of our seats or laughing uncontrollably. He quickly became one of my favorite people.
No lesson was too inconsequential. He even took the time to educate us on elephant dung… right before he made the drive’s morning bush coffee.
Cheers?
Safari Tips –
- Dress warm! It can get pretty chilly as the sun goes down, so layer and bring a jacket.
- Because the vehicle is open air, expect it to be a little breezy. To avoid being whipped by your hair, wear it in a braid or have a hat or scarf handy.
- Wear boots that cover your ankles. If you get out of the vehicle (which you really shouldn’t) you’ll want your ankles protected from the brush.
- Stay seated! The animals see your vehicle as one giant creature. So the second you stand up or stick your arms outside the profile of it, you become an individual (i.e. dinner). Trust me, you don’t want to be singled out when you’re around lions or a tempermental elephant.
- If you’re photographing wildlife, bring a long zoom lens (at least 200mm). I shoot on a Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II Zoom Lens
, which allows me to catch details I’d otherwise miss.
Where The Wild Things Are
Because the game reserve is largely focused on conservation, they make every endeavor to allow the wildlife to live their lives with little human interference.
Much like any National Geographic special, the reserve allows nature to take its course. Before our group arrived, the lions killed all but one of the cheetahs on the property. Then, the morning after we got there we discovered a baby zebra we’d photographed the night before had been eaten just prior to our game drive the next morning.
Cue “The Circle of Life” song from The Lion King.
For the most part, the rangers simply monitor the animal’s whereabouts and nothing more. This is why you’ll find some of the lions wearing tracking collars. The reason being, if they wander onto neighboring farmlands they’ll be shot on sight. So when the reserve sees one has left the safety of the park, they rush to retrieve it.
While on our game drives our guide, Mike, educated us on all kinds of interesting tid-bits!
For instance, did you know the Cape Buffalo’s massive horns (called “boss”) are fused as one solid piece to their skulls? This formidable layer of protection, coupled with their unpredictable nature, make them one of Africa’s most dangerous animals, killing an average of 200 people per year.
He also pointed out the giraffes love to eat a particular type of bush (which evolved massive thorns for protection). Not to be dissuaded, the giraffes carefully eat around the bush’s pointy protection. So after a few minutes, the bush deploys its next defense – bitter tasting leaves. The bush is actually able to change the way it tastes when it’s being attacked, so the giraffes never stayed at a single bush for more than a few moments.
Dung beetles are another fascinating creature. They are grouped by their behaviors (rollers, dwellers, or tunnelers). We witnessed two rolling a ball of elephant poo, which would be either used as food or to lay their eggs inside (called a brood ball). If eggs are laid, the emerging babies are well-fed and ready to take on the world. Yummy.
And did you know zebras aren’t built the same as a domesticated horse? And that their different body structure makes them less than ideal for riding? On top of their physical limitations for becoming a beast of burden, they’re unpredictable and mean! When a zebra kicks it’s powerful hind legs, it looks behind itself first and then kicks with purpose. That purpose can be completely shattering a lion’s jaw (or breaking more than a few human ribs). Plus, they’re biters. And I’m not talking a little warning nip. I’m talking bite until whatever they’re biting is dead. Because of their temperment, some zookeepers have said they feel safer tending to lions than the sassy striped equine.
Close Encounter of the Toothy Kind
One of the most thrilling experiences of my life came during the final game drive. We heard the lions were in the bush nearby, so we decided to stop for a peek before heading back to the lodge for dinner.
Initially, we only saw the male lion sitting alone as the light began to fade below the horizon. We got as close as Mike said was advisable, cut the engine, and watched. Suddenly, the three females began to emerge from the bushes. They each nuzzled past the male, and then proceeded to surround our vehicle. They were so close we could almost reach out and touch them! That is, if we wanted to lose an arm… or worse.
Two then laid down next to the left side of our vehicle, and one disappeared around the back. Unnerving when you’re sitting on the outside edge with nothing to your back but darkness and open air.
Mike then whispered to us not to make any sudden movements, to keep ourselves within the profile of the vehicle, and not to make any weird noises. No problem! We were already frozen in terror.
Unable to turn the engine back on (and consequently unable to leave) we were stuck. We sat there in awed panic as we watched one of Africa’s greatest hunters leisurely lay right next to us. Finally after what felt like forever, Mike radioed for help. Once another vehicle came and created enough of a distraction for us to turn on our engine, we could depart.
It wasn’t until then that I felt comfortable snapping a few photos (which are a bit blurry, because I was shaking so badly I couldn’t hold the camera steady).
Once safely on the road with all our limbs intact, the barrage of questions for Mike began. How often does that happen?! Were we in danger?! What would he do if we’d been attacked?!
The answers – he’s seen them at night, but never that close. Because we didn’t draw attention to ourselves (and the lions approached us and not the other way around) we were fine. And if one of us was pulled from the vehicle, he’d try to scare the lions off and then rush us to medical care (if we were still alive). But he added, if we were attacked the lions would only go after one of us and not everyone in the vehicle.
Comforting.
The encounter was terrifying, breathtaking, gripping, and completely remarkable. A true once-in-a-lifetime experience I’ll never forget!
It’s easy to see why an experience like this would be high on bucket lists everywhere. And a safari at the Gondwana Game Reserve is the perfect place to cross it off. The accommodations are phenomenal, the wildlife impressive, and the experiences leaves you completely awe-struck.
It makes you realize you’re certainly not in Kansas anymore.
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, which allows me to catch details I’d otherwise miss.
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